Each live-edge slab has its own soul and character, and I try my best to maintain that uniqueness by not using any epoxy or polyurethane finish. That also means the tables are more prone to scratches and marks. Treat your table with care, intention, and as an extension of your ritual and tea practice. The finish that I use is all natural and allows for the texture and feeling of the wood to be on full display. It does have a level of water resistance, but I would wipe up any excess water after you enjoy your tea.

Zisha (Yixing purple clay) · Shigaraki · Hagi · Any unglazed or partially unglazed stoneware — Rinse thoroughly with hot water before first use. Do not use soap. For Yixing teapots: fill with hot water, rest a few minutes, empty, and repeat two or three times to open the pores and clear any residue from production. Optional seasoning for Yixing: brew a strong batch of the tea you intend to use in this vessel, let steep 20–30 minutes inside the pot, discard, and rinse with hot water. This begins the flavor memory of the clay. For daily care, rinse with hot water after every use. No soap, ever — porous clay absorbs detergent permanently and it will flavor every future brew. Leave lids off or ajar after use. The interior must air dry completely. Sealed moisture causes mold. Allow to dry fully before storing. Do not stack or enclose pieces that are still damp. Handle the exterior with clean, dry hands when possible — over time the oils of your hands contribute to the patina of the piece. This is welcome but should be consistent. Dedicate Yixing pieces to a single tea type when possible — the seasoning that develops is specific to what has been brewed. Hagi cups will visibly shift color over time as tea penetrates the clay — the Japanese call this Hagi no nanabake, the seven changes. Do not attempt to reverse or clean out this transformation. It is the piece becoming more itself.

Porcelain · Celadon · Crackle glaze · Overglaze enamel · Blue-and-white · Polychrome — For daily care, hand wash only. Warm water. If soap is needed, use the smallest amount of unscented mild dish soap and rinse thoroughly. Do not soak — brief washing only. Prolonged water exposure can stress older glaze, work into hairlines, and loosen any historic repairs. Rinse with warm (not boiling) water before first use of the day to bring the piece to temperature gradually. Dry with a soft lint-free cloth or air dry upright on a clean surface. The unglazed foot rim on most antique cups can scratch surfaces — place on a soft mat or cloth. Crackle glazes — celadon, Oribe, Ru-style pieces — will gradually absorb tea into the crack lines, deepening in color over time. This is the intended development of the piece, not damage. Iron spots, firing marks, and glaze variations are original features of hand-produced ceramics. Do not attempt to clean them. For storing and stacking, do not stack cups directly on top of each other. Use a soft cloth or felt pad between pieces — especially for hand-formed pieces with uneven rims (Oribe, Hagi) where direct stacking creates pressure points. Store in a stable, dry environment away from direct sunlight, which fades overglaze enamels over time.

Tea trays · Drain boards · Tea scoops · Storage boxes · Signed hakogaki boxes — Standing water is the primary enemy of wood. The care principle is simple: dry quickly, dry completely, and condition periodically. For daily care, Wipe down with a damp cloth after each use. Do not submerge or soak. Dry immediately and thoroughly after any water contact. If the piece has a drain reservoir or pipe, empty and dry after each session. Periodically condition with a food-safe oil — unscented mineral oil, walnut oil, or a dedicated wood conditioner. Apply sparingly with a soft cloth, allow to absorb, wipe off any excess. Store in a stable environment. Avoid direct sunlight, heating vents, radiators, and very dry conditions, all of which cause cracking and warping over time. With signed hakogaki boxes, the inscription and seal on a hakogaki box are part of the provenance of the ceramic it houses. Handle with clean, dry hands. Do not expose to moisture under any circumstances. Do not attempt to clean the inscribed surface with any liquid. Dry dusting with a very soft brush only. Store in a dry, stable environment. If the uninscribed exterior shows signs of dryness, a very light application of food-safe oil on that surface only (never the inscribed face) can help.

Bronze · Brass · Copper · Silver · Iron — Antique and vintage metal pieces develop patina over time that is part of their character and value. The goal is to preserve this patina, not restore the metal to a bright finish. For daily care, wipe with a soft dry cloth after use. For pieces that contact tea or water, a lightly damp cloth followed immediately by thorough drying. Dry completely and immediately after any water contact. This is especially critical for iron, which rusts quickly. Store in a dry environment. Silica gel packets in enclosed display cases or storage boxes help manage humidity. METAL TYPE: Bronze & brass: Wipe dry. The dark patina is desirable and protective. Do not polish unless specifically intended — polishing removes patina permanently and is difficult to reverse. Silver: A soft dry cloth for regular maintenance. For light tarnish, a silver polishing cloth applied gently. Avoid chemical silver dips on antique pieces — they can damage fine surface detail and remove intentional oxidation. Iron: Dry immediately and completely after every water contact, without exception. Never leave water standing inside an iron vessel. The residual tea tannin buildup inside iron kettles is protective — do not scrub the interior. Copper: Wipe dry after use. Natural patina is appropriate for antique pieces and should be preserved rather than polished away.

Linen · Cotton · Hemp · Chabu tea runners · Table mats — Natural fiber textiles used in tea practice will stain over time. Many practitioners consider a well-used chabu more beautiful than a pristine one — the staining is evidence of the practice. Care accordingly: maintain, but do not over-pursue cleanliness at the expense of character. Daily Care Spot clean immediately after any tea spills — cool water only for fresh stains. Hot water sets tannin stains permanently. Blot, never rub. Rubbing spreads the stain and damages the weave. Air after each use to release moisture. Natural fibers breathe but will mildew if stored damp. Washing Hand wash in cool water with a small amount of gentle, unscented detergent. Rinse thoroughly to remove all soap residue, which can stiffen natural fibers. If machine washing: delicate or hand-wash cycle, cool water, inside a mesh laundry bag to protect the weave. For stubborn tannin stains: soak the affected area in cool water for 30 minutes before washing. A small amount of white wine vinegar diluted in cool water can help lift tea staining without bleach. Drying Air dry flat or draped over a rod. Do not tumble dry — heat and agitation shrink and distort natural fiber weaves. Linen can be ironed slightly damp on the reverse side for a smooth finish, or left with its natural texture. Store fully dry. Folded linen left even slightly damp will mildew. Occasional sun drying (flat, not in harsh direct midday sun) will naturally and gently lighten tea staining over time if desired.

The best care for these objects is confident, attentive use. Objects that sit in storage deteriorate in different ways than objects that are used — they become brittle in their stillness, lose connection to what they were made for. A piece that is used daily will season and deepen. These are not museum objects. They are companions in a practice. Use them.